Smooth leather keeps the tough outer grain of the hide, nubuck is that same outer grain sanded down to a short, velvety nap, and suede is made from the softer inner layer of the hide, brushed into a looser, fuzzier nap. Smooth leather is the most durable and easiest to clean, nubuck sits in the middle, and suede is the softest but the most easily marked by water and stains.
Key takeaways
- All three are real leather. The difference is which layer of the hide is used and how the surface is finished.
- Smooth leather copes best with rain and daily wear, and wipes clean.
- Nubuck looks like suede but is usually a little tougher, because it comes from the outer grain.
- Suede has the softest look and feel, and needs the most care.
- For everyday trainers (sneakers) in a wet climate, smooth leather is the practical pick. For dry-weather style, suede is hard to beat.
What’s the difference between suede, nubuck and leather?
An animal hide has layers. The outer layer, called the grain, has tightly packed fibres and is the strongest part. Beneath it is a looser, more open layer of fibres. How a tannery treats these layers decides whether you end up with smooth leather, nubuck or suede.
Smooth leather
Smooth leather, such as full-grain or top-grain leather, keeps the outer grain surface. It is usually finished with dyes and a protective coating, which gives it a flat, even surface that sheds light rain and wipes clean. Over time, good smooth leather softens and develops creases and a slight sheen with wear.
Nubuck
Nubuck starts as grain leather. The outer surface is lightly sanded, which raises a very short, fine nap that feels like velvet or a peach skin. Because it keeps most of the grain layer, it is generally stronger than suede, but the sanding opens up the surface, so it absorbs water and oil much more readily than smooth leather.
Suede
Suede is usually made from the inner split of the hide, the layer left after the grain has been separated off. The fibres there are looser, so when they are brushed they form a longer, softer nap. That gives suede its relaxed, matte look and flexibility, but also makes it thinner and more vulnerable to wear, water and stains than the other two.
Suede vs leather vs nubuck: comparison table
| Feature | Smooth leather | Nubuck | Suede |
|---|---|---|---|
| Part of the hide | Outer grain, finished smooth | Outer grain, lightly sanded | Usually the inner split, brushed |
| Feel | Smooth and firm | Short, velvety nap | Soft, longer, fuzzier nap |
| Look | Even surface with some sheen | Matte, fine texture | Matte, relaxed texture |
| Durability | Highest | Medium | Lowest of the three |
| Water resistance | Best, especially when finished or waxed | Low without a protector spray | Low without a protector spray |
| Stain resistance | Good, most marks wipe off | Poor, oil and water can mark it | Poor, oil and water can mark it |
| Everyday cleaning | Damp cloth, then conditioner now and then | Dry brush, nubuck eraser, protector spray | Dry brush, suede eraser, protector spray |
| Creasing | Creases show clearly | Creases show a little | Creases mostly hidden by the nap |
| Best for | Daily wear, wet climates, low fuss | A suede-like look with a bit more toughness | Dry days, smart-casual outfits, softer style |
Which is most durable: suede, nubuck or leather?
Smooth grain leather is the most durable. The tight fibres of the grain resist scuffs and tearing, and its finish protects against water and dirt. Scratches on smooth leather can often be buffed or polished out, and a good pair can last for years with basic care.
Nubuck is next. It has the strength of the grain layer, but the sanded surface marks more easily and can wear shiny in areas that rub, such as the heel and the toe. Suede is the most delicate, largely because the split layer is thinner and looser. That said, quality varies a lot within each type, and a well-made suede trainer can easily outlast a cheap smooth leather one.
Is suede real leather?
Yes. Suede is leather with a different surface, not a separate material. It is most often made from lamb, goat, calf or pig hides. You will also find synthetic suede alternatives, often called microsuede or faux suede, which are made from polyester or similar fibres. They copy the look, tend to handle water a little better, and do not age in the same way as real suede.
Which is best for rain and bad weather?
Smooth leather, clearly. Its finished surface lets water sit on top long enough for you to get indoors, and it wipes dry afterwards. Suede and nubuck both absorb water because their surfaces are open, and they can develop tide marks, stiffness and salt stains if they get soaked.
A protector spray improves water resistance on suede and nubuck, but it does not make either one waterproof. If you live somewhere with a lot of rain, it can make sense to own one smooth leather pair for wet days and keep suede for dry ones. Our Journal guides on suede care cover protector sprays, drying wet suede and removing stains in more detail.
Which is easiest to look after?
Smooth leather needs the least specialist kit. Wipe it with a damp cloth, let it dry naturally and apply leather conditioner every so often to keep it supple and reduce cracking along the creases.
Suede and nubuck take a little more attention:
- Treat them with a protector spray before the first wear, and reapply now and then.
- Brush off dry dirt regularly with a soft brush.
- Use an eraser for scuffs and small marks.
- Deal with stains early, sparingly and with a patch test on a hidden spot first.
- Always dry them at room temperature, away from direct heat.
Nubuck needs a softer touch than suede when brushing, since its nap is shorter and easier to flatten or wear smooth.
Which should you buy?
It comes down to how and where you will wear them.
- Choose smooth leather if you want one pair for everything, walk a lot in unpredictable weather, or prefer shoes you can clean in a minute.
- Choose nubuck if you like the soft, matte look but want something slightly more hard-wearing than suede.
- Choose suede if comfort and texture matter most, you mostly wear the shoes in dry weather, and you don’t mind a few minutes of brushing each week.
Whatever you pick, the right size will do more for comfort than the material. Check your length against our shoe size converter before you order, as brands can differ by up to half a size. If suede suits you, our current suede trainers are in the shop.
FAQs
How can I tell nubuck from suede?
Run your finger across the surface. Nubuck has a very short, tight nap that feels close to velvet, while suede has longer, looser fibres that change colour more obviously when brushed in different directions. Product descriptions usually say which one it is.
Is nubuck more expensive than suede?
It often is, because it is made from the stronger grain layer of the hide rather than the split. Prices depend far more on the brand, construction and hide quality, though, so there are cheap and expensive versions of both.
Can I use the same cleaning products on suede and nubuck?
Mostly, yes. Brushes, erasers and protector sprays sold for suede are usually labelled for nubuck too. Brush nubuck more gently, and avoid wax or cream polishes on either, as they will clog the nap.
Does suede stretch more than leather?
Suede tends to feel softer and give a little more at first, because its fibres are looser. Smooth leather also moulds to your foot with wear. Neither should be bought too small in the hope that it will stretch a full size.
Does smooth leather last longer than suede?
With equal care and similar quality, smooth leather usually lasts longer and shows its age more gracefully. Suede can last well too if you keep it dry, brush it regularly and treat it with a protector.