The main difference between a fedora and a trilby is the brim: a fedora has a wider brim, usually about 2.5 inches (around 6 cm) or more, while a trilby has a shorter brim that angles down at the back and is often worn turned up there. A Panama hat is not a separate shape; it is a hat woven from toquilla straw in Ecuador, and it is often made in a fedora shape.
Key takeaways
- Fedora and trilby describe a hat’s shape; Panama describes its material and origin.
- A fedora has a wider brim, usually around 2.5 in (6 cm) or more.
- A trilby has a narrower brim that slopes down at the back and often sits further back on the head.
- A true Panama is hand-woven from toquilla straw in Ecuador.
- A Panama can be a fedora, and some are made in a trilby shape.
What is the difference between a fedora and a trilby?
Fedoras and trilbies look similar at first glance. Both usually have a pinched front and a dent along the top of the crown, often in a centre-dent or teardrop shape, and both usually have a band above the brim. The easiest way to tell them apart is to look at the brim.
A fedora’s brim is wider, typically around 2.5 inches or more, and can be worn flat or snapped down at the front. A trilby’s brim is noticeably narrower and angles sharply down at the back, where it is usually worn flipped up. Trilbies also tend to have a slightly shorter, tapered crown, and many people wear them pushed a little further back on the head.
Where do the names come from?
Both names are usually traced to the stage. The fedora is linked to the play Fédora from the 1880s, and the trilby to a stage version of the novel Trilby in the 1890s, where hats of each style were worn on stage. Over time, both names came to describe the hat shapes rather than any one design.
Fedora vs trilby vs Panama: comparison table
This table shows the typical features of each. Hat makers vary their designs, so individual hats can sit between these categories.
| Feature | Fedora | Trilby | Panama |
|---|---|---|---|
| What the name describes | A shape | A shape | A material and origin |
| Brim width | Wider, usually about 2.5 in (6 cm) or more | Shorter; angled down at the back | Depends on the shape it is made in |
| Brim style | Flat or snapped down at the front | Down at the front, flipped up at the back | Depends on the shape |
| Crown | Pinched front, centre-dent or teardrop | Similar pinch, often shorter and tapered | Varies; fedora-style crowns are common |
| Usual materials | Wool or fur felt, straw | Wool felt, tweed, straw | Toquilla straw |
| Best season | All year, depending on material | All year, depending on material | Spring and summer |
| Look | Classic, a little more formal | Compact and casual | Light, summery, relaxed |
Is a Panama hat a fedora?
A Panama hat can be a fedora, but not every Panama is one. “Panama” describes the straw and where it comes from, while “fedora” describes the shape. Many Panamas are shaped as fedoras, with a pinched crown and a medium to wide brim, which is why people often mix the two up.
Panamas are also made in other shapes, including trilbies, flat-topped boaters and rounded styles. So a hat can be a Panama fedora, a Panama trilby or a felt fedora that has nothing to do with Panama.
Why is it called a Panama if it comes from Ecuador?
Genuine Panama hats are hand-woven in Ecuador from the leaves of the toquilla palm. The name is usually explained by the hats being shipped through and sold in Panama in the 1800s, which led buyers to associate them with Panama rather than Ecuador.
How can you tell a real Panama hat?
Many straw hats in a Panama style are made from paper straw, other plant fibres or synthetic materials. These can look good and cost less, but they are not true Panamas.
- Check the label or listing. A genuine Panama should state toquilla straw and Ecuador as its origin.
- Look at the weave. Toquilla straw is woven by hand, usually in a fine, even pattern. A finer, tighter weave usually takes longer to make.
- Feel the straw. Toquilla has a smooth, slightly flexible feel. Paper straw often feels stiffer and flatter.
- Look at the crown centre. Hand-woven hats start from a small woven rosette at the top of the crown.
Fedora or trilby: which should you choose?
The right hat depends on your face shape, your build and the clothes you wear it with. There are no strict rules, but a few general ideas help.
Choose a fedora if:
- You want a classic look that works with coats, tailoring and smart-casual outfits.
- You want more shade for your face and neck.
- You have a broader face or a taller frame, where a wider brim can look more in proportion.
Choose a trilby if:
- You prefer a compact, casual hat.
- You want something that packs more easily and suits jeans, knitwear and jackets.
- You have a narrower face or a smaller frame, where a short brim can look more balanced.
- You like to wear a hat tipped slightly back rather than level.
Is a Panama hat good for summer?
Yes. Toquilla straw is light and the weave lets air through, so a Panama tends to feel cooler than a felt hat in warm weather. A Panama fedora with a medium to wide brim also gives useful shade.
Straw needs a little more care than felt. Avoid crushing or folding it, keep it out of heavy rain and hold it by the brim rather than pinching the crown, as repeated pinching can crack the straw over time.
How should each hat fit?
All three should fit the same way: snug, with light even pressure around your head, sitting about a finger’s width above your eyebrows and clear of your ears. Sizing works the same way for each, and your size in centimetres is the same as your EU hat size.
To find your size and convert it to US or UK sizing, use our hat size chart. For more hat and accessory advice, see the Luxeurs Journal, and if you have settled on a fedora, ours is in the shop.
FAQs
Can a trilby be made of straw?
Yes. Straw trilbies are common summer hats, and some are made from toquilla straw, which makes them Panama trilbies.
Is a fedora more formal than a trilby?
Generally, yes. The wider brim of a fedora suits coats and tailoring, while the shorter brim of a trilby tends to look more casual. Material matters too: a dark felt fedora reads dressier than a light straw one.
What brim width counts as a fedora?
A fedora brim is usually about 2.5 inches (around 6 cm) or wider. Brims noticeably narrower than that, especially with a downward slope at the back, are usually called trilbies.
Can you wear a Panama hat in winter?
Straw hats are mainly worn in warm months. In colder weather, a wool or fur felt fedora or trilby is the usual choice.
Why are some Panama hats so expensive?
Genuine Panamas are woven by hand, and finer weaves take much longer to make. Price usually reflects the fineness of the weave and the time involved.